Man About London Town
Here’s a summary of the things I did as a tourist in London during my recent mini-sabbatical. I should add that nearly everything I got up to is free or less than the price of two pints in a London pub (ish).
Greenwich Foot Tunnel – Opened in 1902, 370m long and just 15m deep, the tunnel is always great fun, take the DLR to Island Gardens and follow the signs. Walk around the left of the entrance building and through the little park (which is the actual Island Gardens) for a great view of Greenwich from across the river. At the time of writing, the lifts were being restored, so be prepared for quite a few steps at either end.
Greenwich Royal Observatory – for the most stunning views of London, walk up the hill behind the National Maritime Museum (give that a miss while it’s being refurbished, unless you fancy a sarnie or an eclair from Paul on the mezzanine). Also, just below the observatory at the top and through a little gate, is an ancient looking stone plaque and a line on the wall. It’s the free version of the prime meridian and much more entertaining than the strange globe sculpture you pay to stand in front of.
Thames Clippers – The high speed river bus service runs all along the Thames and is very reasonable. It’s a fiver from Greenwich to Embankment and you can pay out of your Pay As You Go balance on your Oyster Card.
Spirit Collection Tours at the Natural History Museum’s Darwin Centre – Totally free and totally fascinating, even though they are nothing to do with ghosts or drinking. Alcohol is however involved in copious quantities to preserve the 22 million specimens. You’ll see some amazing pickled creatures, including a giant squid, a colossal squid, a coelacanth and some of the animals Darwin himself collected. You have to book your tour at the museum’s main reception, but they leave throughout the day until about 16:15.
Grant Museum – it’s one of the last remaining university zoological museums and has been recently rehoused. It’s a small, but fascinating collection of skeletons and pickled and stuffed animals. Some of the exhitied animals have long since vanished from the wild, so the museum is well worth a visit. Sadly it’s only open weekdays from 1-5pm.
Tate Modern – amazing art and amazing architecture all under one roof. The Mark Rothko room is still one of my all time favourite places on earth. The main collection is free and the walk down the ramp into the old turbine hall from the main entrance takes you into one of London’s most impressive modernist interiors.
Tate Boat – if Tate Modern hasn’t quite fulfilled your artistic desires, head down to Southwark Pier and jump on the Tate Boat. It’s only a fiver on your Oyster card and takes you straight to Tate Britain (with just a short stop at Embankment). Tickets are available from the Thames Clippers hut at the pier or on board.
Tate Britain – I’d forgotten just how incredible the original Tate is! Not just the collection, but the building itself. Thoroughly recommended and once again completely free of charge.
Dr. Johnson’s House – tucked away in the warren of alleys and courtyards behind Fleet Street is the former residence of Samuel Johnson, where he compiled the very first English Dictionary. Built in 1700 it’s been beautifully restored and is well worth a visit.
Dennis Severs’ House – for me this was the highlight of my London tourist time (it was also the most expensive at a whopping eight quid). Words can’t really describe what it’s like to step back into the sights, sounds and smells of 17th century London as you wander around the house, having just chased out the original occupants. Cups of tea are still steaming, freshly baked scones and cakes are still cooling and a glass of port has been spilled in the rush to get out.
Heritage Bus Routes – There are two bus routes in London that TfL still operates the old Routemaster buses on, route 9 (Kensington High Street – Trafalgar Square) and route 15 (Tower Hill – Trafalgar Square). Standard bus fares apply and there’s nothing better than jumping on an off a Routemaster’s open platform between stops or enjoying the view from the front seat of the top deck.
As I said before, my highlight was definitely Dennis Severs’ House, but it’s closely followed by the tour of the Spirit Collection and the Rothko room at Tate Modern. I will definitely go back to visit all of those again.
If you have any must sees yourself, feel free to add them in the comments.






fascinating, thank you for sharing. I like the look for Dennis Severs’ house, looks very educating for the small peoples. Lovely photos
xx
I’m sure it would be, however they encourage you to be very quiet in the house. Mainly so you can hear what the now hidden occupants are saying. So it’s possibly not entirely appropriate for smaller kids.
Hi Chris, Just when I thought I’d seen it all, I find your list! Dr Johnson’s and Dennis Severs’ house is now on my list, maybe when I finally take a mini-sabbatical. How long did you have off?